Friday, January 29, 2016

What does "normal" even mean?



For the last few weeks, I’ve been busy going on short field work assignments with my neighbor and local community health worker, planning a trip to Akagera for myself and 14 other PCVs, attending a workshop for the primary education pilot program, and visiting some friends in the Southwest part of the country. By “busy” I of course mean that any and all free time alone in my house consists of cooking on the imbabura and binge watching Modern Family or Big Bang Theory.
Stuff with the community health center is going well and slowing down with school starting next week, so I’ll be shifting gears a bit and teaching English to the health center staff every Thursday afternoon and working on my grant proposal for a permagarden training that will, with any luck at all, take place in the first two weeks of May 2016. With only a week left before school starts, I am actually building my own permagarden this week. No more procrastination for me. 

Akagera was AWESOME! Even though I was sitting in the fetal position crammed into an old van (twegerane literally translates to “close together”) for about 8 hours, we had a great time! The night before the safari we decided to camp in the park, and saw a stunning sunrise over the lakes and the border of Tanzania. Some people brought ingredients for a fantastic vegetarian stew to feed all of us, and in the morning I made coffee for those of us who desperately need that morning cup of caffeine. We got to see a total of 17 different species of animals, but unfortunately my middle seat in the van only allowed for a few pictures to be taken (I’m hoping everyone else will share their pictures when they get internet access again). Here’s a list with a fun little Kinyarwanda lesson that I’ll be using during my first week of school:
Giraffe = Agasumbashyamba
Bush Buck = Impongo
Water Buffalo = Imbogo
Antelope = Antelope
Baboon = Igitera
Vervet Monkey = Inkende
Kamandika = Isha
Topi = Inyemera
Zebra = Imparage
Reed Buck = Isasu
Water Buck = Indonyi
Hippo = Imvubu
Elephant = Inzovu
Warthog = Isatura
Annoying Biting Fly = Isazi
Moribi Antelope = Isirabo
Fishing Eagle = Kagoma



Two days later I travelled with two of the teachers that I’ll be working with to the town of Muhanga in the Southern Province for a training. We had a two day workshop discussing the primary school pilot program, the new curriculum being implemented this year, and got to visit a teacher training college (TTC) to see their materials development center. The visit to the TTC was definitely the highlight for me; getting to see some different learning materials made from various no cost/ low cost materials was super helpful. 

From Muhanga, I went down to Butare for a brief meeting for Friends of Butare and a fantastic lunch with some friends who were in the area for the football (soccer) games. Who would’ve thought one could be so excited to eat overpriced Chinese food… With full bellies, Christina and I got on our bus headed to the southwest. Through the forest, around the mountains, and into Nyamasheke, I made it to Rachel’s after several hours in the most terrifying vomit-filled bus ride of my life. But holy crap is it beautiful there! From Rachel’s house you can see the lake and the sunset over a ridge of mountains. After two nights, and a day of getting caught in the rain and “not” swimming in Lake Kivu (Peace Corps says we can’t swim in the lakes…), it was time to get back on a bus. I made it to Kigali in record time (about 4 ½ hours), had lunch with a friend at the Rwandan version of a Chipotle, and ventured back to my village. 

Since I’ve been home, I’ve been thinking a lot about “what is normal?” Normal for me now is waking up to see the sunrise, feeding the cat, and putting the chicken outside before going for a run and making breakfast. Normal is walking out of my living room and seeing that the chicken laid an egg in my hallway. Normal is looking down and seeing my cat with a rat or lizard in its mouth before he releases the critters to chase them through my house. Normal is having large groups of children coming to my house to visit/ play with the cat and take photos of themselves while I sew their clothes. Five months ago I wouldn’t have guessed that I’d be doing all of these things as part of a normal daily routine. A year ago, I still couldn’t believe that I might be going to Peace Corps in Rwanda. So much has changed, and will continue to change, as my perception of normal evolves. For now, I’m anxiously awaiting for the start of school and to start integrating into my school community, and once again my “normal” will gradually change.

Saturday, January 9, 2016

Snapshots of Integration

First, before I get into the actual post, here is a little bit about the holidays. Holidays are stressful. At home. In Rwanda. Doesn't matter where, they will most definitely stress me out, but in a good way. For Christmas Eve I had twelve PCVs spend the day/night at my house. We cooked, we cleaned, we drank. Typical holiday for me. I probably won't ever have twelve people stay at my house again, but I'm glad I did it and it was great to see everyone. A few days later, I got a kitten :) he's super snuggly and also very effective with my rat problem. I have always been bad at naming animals and even worse at actually using their name, so he's "cat". I don't think he protests too much. Then it was time for New Years. I went to Kigali and stayed in a hostel with like 13ish other PCVs and we all went out to a nearby bar, came back to the hostel after midnight, and went to bed around 3:30-4am. Guess which hostel apparently throws a massive party starting at 5am? We were woken up to brochettes and chips cooking, about a thousand people drinking outside our window, and super loud music. Despite the chaos, it was another great holiday, and I really enjoyed myself.

Now for the real post...


So my primary job as a PCV newly installed at site, a little over a month at this point, is to "integrate" into my community. You might ask yourself: "what does that even mean?". I have no idea to be honest with you. It looks different for each and every one of us. Here is a list of a few moments where I definitely felt integration happening, and a few more questionable moments that I'm still not sure what to call..

1. A Rwandan friend is coming to visit me. She's never been here. She stops 2 kilometers early, several villages away, and asks if she is going the right way. Everyone was able to tell her "Kelly atuye Gatare, komeza" (Kelly lives in Gatare, continue). One, people know where I live, but I am the only white person in my whole sector so it's to be expected. Two, THEY KNOW MY NAME!!

2. When the moto drivers see me walking down the mountain they stop and offer me a free ride. Usually I explain that I enjoy walking and they think I'm crazy, but none the less it's much appreciated.

3. I am no longer called "umuzungu", almost everyone knows my name at this point.

4. I am now the proud owner of a cat and a chicken. All of my neighbors like to help me with things, especially if it means playing with the only friendly kitty around :) Now I get daily swarms of small children coming to visit me and to play with the cat.

5. Sometimes the cat runs into my neighbors house.. They are TERRIFIED of cats.. So sometimes my daily integration efforts consist of chasing the cat through their house and apologizing profusely in kinyarwanda. Integration..?

6. Regularly answering the question "Are you a girl or are you a woman?" This one took me a while to understand, but basically it's a strange way of asking if I'm married and if I have kids. There is always a lot of explaining why I don't want a husband and kids at 22.

7. Successfully navigating my way through the night market, naturally in the dark, and not overpaying for bananas.

8. Greeting people in kinyarwanda and then them telling you in English that you speak like a Rwandan. WIN.

9. A student sees me trip (these uneven dirt roads are hazardous for my clumsiness), then in perfect English says "Teacher, you are clumsy".. They knew I was a teacher!

10. A friend of mine came to visit for a night after New Years. I had been away for about 3 days. We were greeted by a large group of small children who all proceeded to hug me :)

Sometimes integration can be as small as people knowing you have a name other than umuzungu (white person/foreigner), sometimes it involves being stuck on the twegerane for 2 hours and holding your own in a kinyarwanda conversation, and sometimes you just have a moment and think "wow, this is what it feels like to be part of the community". You never know when these moments are is happening. Gotta love it.









going to happen, but they do. Almost everyday you have at least one awkward and/or glorious moment where you feel it happening. And it
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